Slide won't budge, trying to clear weapon.

[Airforcetransguy]

Went to try and clear my pistol last night and the slide wouldn't pull back. These are the best pictures I could take. It looks like the round may not have seated properly. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.


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[pharmer]

First thing is no matter what you try, never place hands/fingers/body parts in front of muzzle. It will take some "extra effort" and temptation is to move slide from muzzle. I personally know a guy who had a similar tie-up with a 9mm Diamondback and got a hole through his hand clearing it. Like the robot said: "Danger!, Danger! Will Robinson!" Joe

 

[Airforcetransguy]

Got the round out without having to fire it. I did notice the barrel and slide like to bind where the round sits. Chambers just fine. I'm just a little hesitant to fire with the binding.


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[3hounds]

When chambering a round let the slide slam home.

Don't baby it, pull slide all the way back and let it go.

You can try to use the slide stop, release lever, whatever you
want to call it.

3

 

[TriumphMan]

Glad you got it unloaded.

You left out lots to help AND prevent for others, as to why slide jammed and didn't want to open.

What ammo used?
Wolf brass and steel Tula are some very dirty rounds and will leave lots of residue behind. Many steel ammo has a clear varnish coating that will gum up chambers that can't be seen and needs brass brushed, to break up that varnish to clean out.

Same ammo in chamber pictures, as previously shot?
I see brass.

Last timed barrel cleaned/chamber brushed for residue?
Some chambers are reamed tighter than others. Think a new reamer(correct size) vs a end-of-life reamer, that's been in action for 500 chambers, going through hot/cold cycles of metal extraction. Still within all tolerances used, but tighter for some ammos when fired and the case expands.

I always oil the chamber when also cleaning/oiling barrel to never leave a dry metal to metal contact between chamber and round left in chamber when in condition 1.
Also doesn't set up a metal corrosive reaction, between two dissimilar metals.

What gun oil(s) used?
I now only use synthetic oils as these oils don't burn off like regular gun oils -- Hopps/RemOil/etc.
Even Mobil1(my favorite) motor oil is better than any old fashioned gun oils.

Riding the Slide when chambering round or let Slide slam closed, when loading 1st round?

 

[federali]

I've Seen The Problem

It's a relatively easy fix. Generally, you need to place the front of the slide against an immovable object, then push hard on the grip. You cannot push against both slide and barrel, just the slide.

Another method is to take a piece of lumber, such as 2X4 or 2X6,
Drill a short hole in the side of the wood, large enough in diameter to accept the outside diameter of the barrel. Clamp the wood to a sturdy bench, align the barrel with the hole you drilled, then push on the slide.

 

[federali]

Causes

In the two or three guns I've cleared in this manner, one was caused by a defective factory round where a small portion of the case mouth got rolled inward, creating a bulge. The round didn't fully chamber but wedged itself so tight that I had to resort to the method described to get the danged thing out of the chamber.

The other two were caused by out-of-spec handloads.

 

[Flattop5]

Too much oil in the chamber can lock a semi-auto gun up. Similar to the way a wet drinking glass can "grab" a smooth table when you try to lift the glass straight up. It creates suction, of sorts.



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[TriumphMan]

Too much oil in the chamber can lock a semi-auto gun up. Similar to the way a wet drinking glass can "grab" a smooth table when you try to lift the glass straight up. It creates suction, of sorts.



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Please prove it. I'd like to see any links that too much oil in a gun's chamber will create a suction that locks a semiauto gun up. A mess yes, locking up, no.

All it'll do is make for a few first shot rounds of splattering residue oil going everywhere, but it definitely won't lock it up.

A gun's chamber isn't solid on one side to create a suction when a bullet enters it. It will squeeze the oil out of way and extra oil will run out barrel, or back side of case rim.

What I have seen over my time, is someone using too much oil in a firing pin bolt. What happens is the oil is riding in the firing pin/spring's channel and with a tiny hole only available for the firing pin's tip to hit the primer, the oil created too much cushion for the spring, and the firing pin suddenly seals up the hole, to overcome the enertia needed and pin didn't strike the primer with enough force to fire. With enough dry fires, enough oil escaped out the firing pin hole, that gun again fired as if nothing happened. Temperatures also play big in how thick any oil becomes.

I have also seen old type gun oils turn to a gummy residue over time from non usage and made things stick and not work properly. Required a new cleaning and oiling to remove and worked as new.

I believe the sticking of a glass on a smooth table is called adhesion, not suction.

Not arguing my fellow shooter, just a good discussion.

 

[Flattop5]

Triumph:

Well, one day I went to open my Browning Buckmark .22, and it would not open at all.

After I finally got it open by really jerking the slide hard, I found that there was a lot of oil in the breech, along with a live .22 round. An educated guess led me to conclude that the oil on the walls of the chamber caused a suction, or adhesion, that made opening the slide really hard. After I removed the round and the oil, the slide was easy to cycle. Just a coincidence??



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[Neumann]

This has happened to me with a compact pistol (Kahr PM45, Springfield XD-S) when the OAL was too long. The chambers tend to be short and the bullet may lodge in the rifling. This may also cause a misfire (driving the bullet even harder) by cushioning the blow, or operating the disconnect.

About all you can do is to press or strike the slide against something rigid while keeping your finger off the trigger and the muzzle pointed in a safe direction.

Do a "plunk" test with your ammo on the dismounted barrel. Press the bullet into the chamber with your thumb. If it doesn't "plunk" on the cartridge lip, or doesn't fall out freely after pressing home, you've got trouble.

Since then, I load .45 ACP hollow points (Hornady XTP) to 1.23", and ball to 1.25". The maximum OAL is listed at 1.275", but that's to fit the magazine, not all chambers, and not all ogives are the same either.

 

[okiegtrider]

This thread kinda gave me a shudder. It's scary how easily an accident can happen in a situation like this.

I even thought about posting a pretty gruesome pic I have from a guy I know who shot himself trying to clear a .45 auto. Yea, he screwed up, ignored the safety rules we all know. He paid a heavy price for it.

I thought better of the notion of posting the photo, and I'll just say...Be careful ya'll!

 

[TriumphMan]

Triumph:

Well, one day I went to open my Browning Buckmark .22, and it would not open at all.

After I finally got it open by really jerking the slide hard, I found that there was a lot of oil in the breech, along with a live .22 round. An educated guess led me to conclude that the oil on the walls of the chamber caused a suction, or adhesion, that made opening the slide really hard. After I removed the round and the oil, the slide was easy to cycle. Just a coincidence??



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It's really hard to say.

Springs started to take on a "set" in slide from short/long non-usage.
Not enough oil on slide metals.
Not heavy enough oil viscosity to cling to parts and ran off metal.
Oil adhesion from short non-usage.
Extractor trying to extract stuck round from chamber, thus harder to open slide.
Try it. Racking slide while extracting(live) rounds compared to racking slide on empty chamber. Definitely, keep trigger finger away from the trigger guard to not AD.
Magazine with rounds also puts pressure on slide from underneath.
Firing hotter loads than gun is designed to shoot. This makes slide over-travel and throws off timing and beats up the spring(s) and slide parts.
Regular oils compared to synthetic oils for better usage/protections.

There may be more than one problem going on and if all the movements that make for one action don't work precisely, the one action won't work correctly.

 

[peterthefish]

The best way to clear these types of jams absent tools is to firmly hold the slide in your weak hand, firearm pointed straight and level down range. With your strong hand open you basically strike the grip, as if you're trying to get a grip on the gun and push it forward.

A lot of folks call this type of jam a death jam - it's not uncommon at matches where a carelessly reloaded round (too long, rolled brass, etc...) causes the round to stick in the leade or chamber. With proper technique you can still clear one on the clock, or at least avoid driving home with a firearm with a chambered round that you can't clear.

 

[40s&w]

I've had this happen with a snap cap that was made from a fired round. The snap cap case that made my slide jam had a very slight bulge near the bottom.

OP, was this reloaded ammo or factory?

 

[Steve912]

Airforcetransguy, how new is the pistol (in terms of rounds fired)?
Looks like she's still breaking in slide/barrel, from that wear streak
on chamber top.

You might find a sharp 'wire edge' on the top/front edge of the chamber top, where it cams up into the ejection port. That will eventually wear off, but if you have a fine stone or diamond hone, you can gently smooth it. Nothing extreme, light hand pressure, a few strokes is all it would take.

The best method I've seen for popping a stuck live round was performed
by a gunsmith, on a Diamondback DB9.

He put the slide in a padded vise, with ejection port clear, and grip facing up. Then he delivered a vigorous 'karate chop' to the backstrap area of grip (about where the web of your thumb should be when gripping pistol), effectively pushing frame *forward*--same as pulling slide back, but easier.

Round popped out on second chop, no fuss, no muss.

 

[Alk8944]

Too much oil in the chamber can lock a semi-auto gun up. Similar to the way a wet drinking glass can "grab" a smooth table when you try to lift the glass straight up. It creates suction, of sorts.



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Bunk!!!!!!

Airforcetransguy

I don't see that you ever said, but I will put money on the cartridge being a reload. Either yours or someone else's or a commercial reload. Not properly sized and it stuck in the chamber. If you are doing the loading buy a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die and use it per instructions!

If you are reloading either "Plunk Test" your loads in your barrel or buy a cartridge gauge and check every round. Same if you are buying commercial reloads from any source, some commercial loaders are not particularly fastidious when it comes to verifying cartridge dimensions!

 

[3hounds]

He probably won't be back to answer any questions,
he got round out.

As mentioned earlier in thread, there is a lot of brass
on the slide in the one pic.

Also I noticed the wear mark ? on top of chamber, it's
centered on chamber with the caliber markings.

Never seen a wear mark, if that's what it is, like that ?

Think he needs to clean the gun, definitely something
rubbing, maybe a burr from slide.

Pistol is an older version, not an SD40VE, LOOK AT THE RAIL.

3

 

[Targets Guy]

first thing I do is remove the magazine