I don’t know that I’ve seen a thread for this specific topic:
- What do you find to be the ideal configuration for an M&P/model 10 revolver? It can be one that’s been made by the factory, or one you wish was made. Keep within the parameters and don’t turn it into a 357 mag or combat masterpiece.
Background: I’m currently without a basic 4 inch fixed sight 38 spl K frame. I’ll rectify that sometime in the upcoming months. It got me to thinking “what configuration or iteration do I prefer”? There’s been changes over the years to sights, grip configuration, hammer styles, barrel profiles etc…
I think it’s an interesting question and would love to hear what the preferences are out there. Purpose will come in to play since there’s no one tool that does it all perfectly. Of course photos are encouraged if you have the one that fits your description.
I’ll start it off. It’s going to be picky but it’s been on my mind.
- purpose: just to have and shoot and enjoy, not necessarily for EDC. For occasional woods bumming and range fun.
- 4 inch barrel, with standard profile. Heavy feels good but standard is better balanced both visually and in-hand.
- Serrated 1/10” ramp front sight as found in late 50s early 60s. Don’t need quick sight acquisition since not EDC primary purpose. Gives finer sight picture than 1/8” and without glare of half-moon sight.
- Blued finish, purdy but also less flashy than stainless
- Grip frame: square butt.
- Stocks: early PC magnas, slightly rounded for comfort and diamond center for cool factor. I wouldn’t say no to ivory or stags cut for Magna PC profile.
- Black powder cylinder front bevel for cool factor and ease holstering.
- Rear sight squared notch as found on 1920s and later. Gives better sight picture than the early dimple. Preference though for the channel to be a little deeper than often found on the guns that have the 1/10” sight.
- Trigger: smooth faced standard width for easy DA operation. Color case hardened of course.
- Hammer: long prewar action but with slightly more aggressive checkering than found on older long-throw hammers. Combat width, not target. Hammer nose on the hammer, not frame mounted firing pin.
- Extractor rod knob: mushroom type as found on early HEs before going to the the barrel type. Easier on the palm though no plans to hotrod for sticky extraction. Also cool factor is definitely on the early extractor knob.
I think that covers it. It looks like I need to locate a 1930s HE with prewar magnas (alter for rounded for PC profile), alter the front sight for serrated ramp, recut the barrel underside to allow for mushroom extractor knob, cut little bit more checkering into the hammer, and smooth out the trigger face.
I’ll probably think of something after the fact and need to edit. This is why many folks can’t stop with one M&P/10/64.
- What do you find to be the ideal configuration for an M&P/model 10 revolver? It can be one that’s been made by the factory, or one you wish was made. Keep within the parameters and don’t turn it into a 357 mag or combat masterpiece.
Background: I’m currently without a basic 4 inch fixed sight 38 spl K frame. I’ll rectify that sometime in the upcoming months. It got me to thinking “what configuration or iteration do I prefer”? There’s been changes over the years to sights, grip configuration, hammer styles, barrel profiles etc…
I think it’s an interesting question and would love to hear what the preferences are out there. Purpose will come in to play since there’s no one tool that does it all perfectly. Of course photos are encouraged if you have the one that fits your description.
I’ll start it off. It’s going to be picky but it’s been on my mind.
- purpose: just to have and shoot and enjoy, not necessarily for EDC. For occasional woods bumming and range fun.
- 4 inch barrel, with standard profile. Heavy feels good but standard is better balanced both visually and in-hand.
- Serrated 1/10” ramp front sight as found in late 50s early 60s. Don’t need quick sight acquisition since not EDC primary purpose. Gives finer sight picture than 1/8” and without glare of half-moon sight.
- Blued finish, purdy but also less flashy than stainless
- Grip frame: square butt.
- Stocks: early PC magnas, slightly rounded for comfort and diamond center for cool factor. I wouldn’t say no to ivory or stags cut for Magna PC profile.
- Black powder cylinder front bevel for cool factor and ease holstering.
- Rear sight squared notch as found on 1920s and later. Gives better sight picture than the early dimple. Preference though for the channel to be a little deeper than often found on the guns that have the 1/10” sight.
- Trigger: smooth faced standard width for easy DA operation. Color case hardened of course.
- Hammer: long prewar action but with slightly more aggressive checkering than found on older long-throw hammers. Combat width, not target. Hammer nose on the hammer, not frame mounted firing pin.
- Extractor rod knob: mushroom type as found on early HEs before going to the the barrel type. Easier on the palm though no plans to hotrod for sticky extraction. Also cool factor is definitely on the early extractor knob.
I think that covers it. It looks like I need to locate a 1930s HE with prewar magnas (alter for rounded for PC profile), alter the front sight for serrated ramp, recut the barrel underside to allow for mushroom extractor knob, cut little bit more checkering into the hammer, and smooth out the trigger face.
I’ll probably think of something after the fact and need to edit. This is why many folks can’t stop with one M&P/10/64.
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