Model 19-3 stainless?

[Doc44]

glev...Please post a photo of the side plate of the revolver showing the S&W logo. That might help me in determining if the revolver has been refinished or not. Thanks.

Bill

 

[CT Smith Fan]

Glev,You have to remember that we are not the S&W Historian and don't have the LOA information at our fingertips.Everyone who answers your thread is interested in what you have or they would not bother.A little kidding around helps us all get through the day.That said, Bill is an expert so post some photos,talk to S&W and keep an open mind.

 

[sigp220.45]

I once puzzled over a gun IDENTICAL to yours in a shop in Idaho. Turns out the owner, for one of those inexplicable reasons, had removed all of the bluing and the gun was in the white. The only clue was tiny traces of bluing near the rear sight. Could it be plain old bare steel?

I agree with the general consensus, though, that somebody wanted a Model 66 (which were hard to find for quite a while) and did the next best thing by refinishing a Model 19.

 

[glev]

No offense intended and pictures

Bill, you have been the most helpful of all. I wrote this in an earlier post, the research and ongoing replies with specific suggestions are the best. I enjoy reading a post and then going to the gun to investigate. My only issue was with the very small number of posts saying they "know for a fact" that the gun is _______. I,m all for a definitive answer that I can verify. In the mean time please keep adding suggestions and things to look for. I honestly appreciate the help.

 

[Nightowl]

finish

I think you have an interesting gun. I think you should write for a letter from Roy, as that is the only way for you to really be sure. If it is hard chrome plated, it will still be a fine gun, as the hard chrome is a harder finish than either the blue or stainless and will allow a life time of use. I'll with hold my opinion until you get the letter.

 

[Doc44]

glev...thanks for the photos. The logo and printing (including the periods) may look a little less pronounced than on my 66 and 629s, but it does not definitively indicate a polishing to remove a former finish. I think I am finally out of ideas.

I would ask for a factory letter. It will tell you if the revolver shipped as a 19-3 and what the original finish is (or was). Let us know what it says. If the revolver shipped as a 66, then it is incorrectly stamped.

Your posting has generated lots of interesting discussion.

Bill

 

[dant]

Just saw this and as we used to have many gun s done by Ron Mahovsky through our shop ( and two of my own personal model 19s were done as such (Metalife SS) the 'batch ' numbers cited by bdgreen comes to mind, as many shops did just that. but the proof in th pudding would be quite easy to find out and how we do it is to scribe a mark ( line) on the grip fram eflat , out of sight no less, and apply a drop of cold blue, the underlying metal will or will NOT turn 'blue'...if its stainless, (all the way through & through) no way will it "turn blue",but my bet is it will, see this all too often, and makes the crowd go nuts figuring out "why" it looks so much like stainless and its NOT....good luck, and as noted above, even if it was "mismarked" as to a model number ( also happens from time to time) only a slight premium .......all of this would have taken a couple of minutes to" solve your riddle...."

 

[GLL]

What was the final verdict on the"V" on the rear cylinder face and the "S" in ejector shroud?

Jerry

 

[glev]

Just saw this and as we used to have many gun s done by Ron Mahovsky through our shop ( and two of my own personal model 19s were done as such (Metalife SS) the 'batch ' numbers cited by bdgreen comes to mind, as many shops did just that. but the proof in th pudding would be quite easy to find out and how we do it is to scribe a mark ( line) on the grip fram eflat , out of sight no less, and apply a drop of cold blue, the underlying metal will or will NOT turn 'blue'...if its stainless, (all the way through & through) no way will it "turn blue",but my bet is it will, see this all too often, and makes the crowd go nuts figuring out "why" it looks so much like stainless and its NOT....good luck, and as noted above, even if it was "mismarked" as to a model number ( also happens from time to time) only a slight premium .......all of this would have taken a couple of minutes to" solve your riddle...."

Dan,
Once again, it must be a sad person ( probably very qualified though) that would rather insinuate brilliance at someone's expense instead of offering to explain how to perform such a simple and fast test. I wonder if being of such lofty intellect makes a person agitated and condescending?

 

[borntoraisehogs]

Glev , don't know what you got there for sure , but with all this controversy I am starting to want one too .

 

[DrewW]

Dan,
Once again, it must be a sad person ( probably very qualified though) that would rather insinuate brilliance at someone's expense instead of offering to explain how to perform such a simple and fast test. I wonder if being of such lofty intellect makes a person agitated and condescending?

I am pretty sure Dan explained how to perform the test, scratch the gun under the grip frame where it will be hidden and apply some cold blue to the scratch, if it turns blue the underlying metal is regular steel and it is a 19, if it doesn't turn blue the underlying metal is stainless steel and the gun is probably a mis-marked 66.

 

[H Richard]

The "V" stamped on the cylinder is exactly like two I have. An early 686 (6/82 ship) and a 60 (5/76 ship). I have been told it was a mark to distinguish Stainless cylinders from un-blued cylinders.

Some time back, I recall hearing about a conversation with Roy when he did acknowledge a few Mod 19's were made in stainless prior to the 66 being introduced. I do not recall when I heard this, but within the past 3-4 years.

The Picture of the right side, with the side plate looking a little different would make me think of a plating job, as I have a Mod 19-4 with a Metaloy finish, and it exhibits the same characteristics.

But, with the "V" mark on the cylinder I am really curious now. Possibly the only way it to get a letter.

My metaloyed Mod 19-4.

 

[bamabiker]

I think the photo of the V is someone else's gun not the OP. The OP said he could not make out the mark on his cylinder, said it looks like a 5 or S.
I wasn't going to say anything because he seems to get upset with giving opinions that he don't like but the gun does not look like stainless to me. Don't know how to explain it just don't have the same look. I guess it could be the photos.

 

[dant]

Dan,
Once again, it must be a sad person ( probably very qualified though) that would rather insinuate brilliance at someone's expense instead of offering to explain how to perform such a simple and fast test. I wonder if being of such lofty intellect makes a person agitated and condescending?

whoa, sorry I commented, could NOT have said it any "simpler & easier" as to "how to test"...have a nice day...................your gun, YOU figure it out.

 

[a357magnum]

Just saw this and as we used to have many gun s done by Ron Mahovsky through our shop ( and two of my own personal model 19s were done as such (Metalife SS) the 'batch ' numbers cited by bdgreen comes to mind, as many shops did just that. but the proof in th pudding would be quite easy to find out and how we do it is to scribe a mark ( line) on the grip fram eflat , out of sight no less, and apply a drop of cold blue, the underlying metal will or will NOT turn 'blue'...if its stainless, (all the way through & through) no way will it "turn blue",but my bet is it will, see this all too often, and makes the crowd go nuts figuring out "why" it looks so much like stainless and its NOT....good luck, and as noted above, even if it was "mismarked" as to a model number ( also happens from time to time) only a slight premium .......all of this would have taken a couple of minutes to" solve your riddle...."

Most helpful post yet why would you attack him?

Also, I's gots to know..................................... Did your "friend" find any cavities?

 

[CT Smith Fan]

Glev,You have got to lighten up.It's only a gun,not the cure for cancer.

 

[james56]

Glev, In:
Pic. # 1..Inside the grooves made by the crane being opened and closed is very dark!! non of my SS S&W's have that discloration even when dirty, but thats along time ago when I didnt clean them right. "Not sure" it's not in my hand to tell.
Pic. # 2.. the top circle the pitting? why does it have the same discoloration?The same with the pitting between the top circle and B19 stamp same pic straight across the inside of frame to back strap of frame looks like the same going on there also. My point being, again gun not in hand, if this not dirt, it looks like blue. Not saying it is but would make me think it's blueing I dont know? wipe and clean it. Have the Dentist use those pic's and see or you do it . No pun intended here just I would.

Now how many grooves are in the backstrap?

What letter is Stamped on the cylinder face, faceing you when opened? I think Doc asked you that and didnt get an answer yet.

The B19 stamp is a little interesting? some say it an assemblers # I dont know?

Im wondering why the flashed chromed Hammer and Trigger?
Cannot find anywhere, where it appeared on a M-19 unless special ordered or changed out by a gunsmith, as far as I can tell or find in researching this M-19. But I do know what model it almost always came on! What I have learned here in this Forum is anything is possiable with S&W. My nickel M-19 is older then this one, you have, and doesnt have one and since seeing these come along I always thought about changing it but then always decided not to...

Interesting Handgun whatever it is. You need to letter it for sure, in there lies the answer! For sure... Good Clue is Mr. Jinks may have already given the answer.
good luck with your Quest
James

I attached more detailed photos of the markings on the grips and cylinder arm. I also checked for the stamps on the cylinder and ejector. On the back of the ejector it's very difficult to see. With the small magnifying glass I have it appears to be stamped with the same number that's on the swing arm. There is an additional letter or two but I can't clearly see them without better magnification. On the back of the cylinder there is a clear mark I just don't know what to make of it. The mark looks like an oddly shaped 5 and back-words S. Any information anyone can add would be appreciated. A few additional questions: Why would it have all of the correct markings if the gun is a mistake or other odd release? Also the machining marks are very clear inside the frame and grip. None of the blued or nickel guns I have show such clear machining because the finish hides it. Last, there is no discoloration or corrosion in any of the small scratches. (In my limited experience, a gun that has had a finish of any kind must be kept oiled and extra care taken to avoid this. I have not had the same problem with this gun at any time and it has been used and carried extensively.)

 

[sheriff51]

Would'nt a revolver made from stainless weigh more than a carbon steel gun of the same size? I think published weights of both the M-19 and the M-66 would tell you what it really is. Just a simple thought from a simple mind It would take a good scale, I doubt if the differance is much

 

[Sgt 127]

Dan,
Once again, it must be a sad person ( probably very qualified though) that would rather insinuate brilliance at someone's expense instead of offering to explain how to perform such a simple and fast test. I wonder if being of such lofty intellect makes a person agitated and condescending?

Pardon me, but, in the spirit of polite conversation, what the hell was that for?

Odds are, you have a refinished model 19. You're researching it like it is the Shroud of Turin.

If its mismarked, its mismarked. A letter may prove you are right. So will scratching through the finish and seeing if cold blue affects it. All the seeking with a 10X loupe will not prove it one way or the other. They are the same gun, one made of carbon steel, the other stainless. One should be stamped 19, the other 66. If indeed its a mismarked gun, good for you, its a little unusual. If its been plated, good for you, its a great shooter.

 

[james56]

I wondering why there's 2, B 19's stamp into it. 1 on the crane and one one the frames Left side grip? Can anyone edgamocate me? Im willing to learn!! I cant find it in the S&W ST. Cat.
Thanks and Respectfully
james

 

[Sgt 127]

I wondering why there's 2, B 19's stamp into it. 1 on the crane and one one the frames Left side grip? Can anyone edgamocate me? Im willing to learn!! I cant find it in the S&W ST. Cat.
Thanks and Respectfully
james

There are stamps and markings all over the frame of most S&W revolvers. For instance, I took the grips off my 642 that I am carrying right now. These stamps appearon the grip frame: B15. "K" in a circle. F3U. "J" in a triangle. 943XK. 21104 143. On the cylinder: E. On the crane E 143. To the best of my knowledge, they are assemply numbers, to make sure the parts stay together during assembly and finishing and inspector marks.

The "K" in a circle can't define the frame, since its a J frame. The "J" in a triangle may designate a J frame. The B15 can't designate that its a Blue model 15, since its a stainless and aluminum 642. So, I think most have no real utility for a collector.

Some may designate the material the part is made of before finishing and some designate a final finish IE blue or nickel. Or a refinish or trip back to the factory for work.

I hope I got all that right...

 

[Matchlock]

The Logo

Good afternoon gentlemen, and ladies of course.

Not to take away from your fine revolver here sir, but I noticed that the placement of the S&W logo is also quite high on that revolver. As a matter of fact, that's the highest I've ever seen that logo placed on a S&W. Does anyone else find that odd, or am I just dreaming. I'm no expert by the way, just noticed something that I thought was different.

Thanks

Bud

Bill, you have been the most helpful of all. I wrote this in an earlier post, the research and ongoing replies with specific suggestions are the best. I enjoy reading a post and then going to the gun to investigate. My only issue was with the very small number of posts saying they "know for a fact" that the gun is _______. I,m all for a definitive answer that I can verify. In the mean time please keep adding suggestions and things to look for. I honestly appreciate the help.

 

[Matchlock]

Grips

Excuse me for just "butting in" here but I just had to say what a beautiful little revolver that is, especially the grips. Absolutely marvelous. Thanks for showing that.

Bud


My metaloyed Mod 19-4.

[/QUOTE]

 

[redsfan2]

Excuse me for just "butting in" here but I just had to say what a beautiful little revolver that is, especially the grips. Absolutely marvelous. Thanks for showing that.

Bud


My metaloyed Mod 19-4.

[/QUOTE]


You beat me to it ..... I think that is one of the best looking guns I've ever seen.

 

[ia1727]

Apologies ?

Pardon me, but, in the spirit of polite conversation, what the hell was that for?

Odds are, you have a refinished model 19. You're researching it like it is the Shroud of Turin.

If its mismarked, its mismarked. A letter may prove you are right. So will scratching through the finish and seeing if cold blue affects it. All the seeking with a 10X loupe will not prove it one way or the other. They are the same gun, one made of carbon steel, the other stainless. One should be stamped 19, the other 66. If indeed its a mismarked gun, good for you, its a little unusual. If its been plated, good for you, its a great shooter.

Glev,

You have come to a FREE forum asking for FREE advice. I am also very new here and VERY THANKFUL for the FREE time and FREE advice given by so many forum members.

You have been repeatedly told to get a letter, call S&W, no one can tell definitely and finally someone offers what is a fool proof way to tell ( Thank you Dan for sharing your FREE knowledge) and you attack him. Why not attack Saxonpig for his comments also and alienate yourself from everyone.

Remember--you started the thread--you asked for help over and over and it was given FREELY from people that have gained this experience and knowledge over a long period of time.

Until you personally apologize to those you have attacked on on this thread, I for one will totally ignore any threads or posts
you initiate.

Not to smart to "Bite the hand that feeds YOU"

Steve

 

[james56]

Thanks SGT127

 

[CT Smith Fan]

One of the most important points of this forum is to share knowledge. The various plating methods that have been used and how to tell the difference is very valuable to know.It would be nice if the OP would update us on what he has found out. BTW +1 to Steve

 

[ia1727]

One of the most important points of this forum is to share knowledge. The various plating methods that have been used and how to tell the difference is very valuable to know.It would be nice if the OP would update us on what he has found out. BTW +1 to Steve

Thank you--I totally Agree

Steve

 

[florida1098]

An Appology Is In Order

I believe the OP owes an apology, just my opinion

 

[M28]

One of the most important points of this forum is to share knowledge. The various plating methods that have been used and how to tell the difference is very valuable to know.It would be nice if the OP would update us on what he has found out.

I wouldn't hold my breath. Since it's highly unlikely the gun hasn't been refinished, the OP would have to admit to those he trashed that they were indeed correct.

Brian~