Rough old M29 in the hands of a newbie

[KDJones]

It was suggested that I move this query over to Gunsmithing. I now know that my revolver is not DAO (I should have known). Here is the story:
First post ever. No snickering please. I have disassembled my .44 and cleaned and oiled it and it won't hold cock in single action. It occurred to me that it might be DA only. Is this so? I could save a lot of research time and money if someone could line me out on this. Thanks.
Added info: This was once a pretty blue revolver belonging to a friend who threw it in his gear bag after an Alaskan float trip and had to go to work on the north slope. two weeks later he returned and opened the bag to find his revolver covered with rust. he buffed it off and I gave him a hundred bucks for it. I'd like to get it up and running again, but may not even reblue it.

 

[armorer951]

Just a guess....Is it possible the gun has been dropped on the hammer spur? This sometimes results in the spur being bent to the point that the hammer will not (can not) retract far enough for the bevel of the trigger to engage the SA notch in the hammer. Does the gun function normally in double action?
When you attempt to cock the gun in SA (after making sure it's unloaded/safe) does the bottom side of the hammer spur come into contact with the top of the grip frame....preventing the hammer from competely/fully coming back?

 

[KDJones]

I can pass a 3/32 pin punch over the back strap and under the hammer spur, but not a 1/8 pin punch so, maybe 7/64" clearance. I can hold a K38 combat masterpiece behind the N29 and squint along the profiles and they seem to line up fairly well. different models, but the 29, in comparison is similar in angle...and yes, it seems to operate DA pretty well. Pretty smooth. and SA seems to just barely want to catch, but won't.
One other thing: when recovered, this gun had rust fur all over it. by the time it was buffed down, there was virtually no blue left anywhere; is it possible he got inside the mechanism and buffed off the notch or bevel enough to make it just slide off? I thought those parts were case hardened but...
I'm waiting for a rebound slide and spring tool from Brownell so I can get it back down completely and make sure all parts are functioning full stroke (no hidden crud inside a spring tube or whatever)
Thanks a million for your ideas. I'll continue to check out the bent spur notion - it wouldn't take much.

 

[torizus]

Welcome KDJones

armorer951 brought up some real possibilities and maybe a couple nice resolution pics of hammer and trigger with side plate off might bring a clue.

Would a DOA be advantageous in bear country? I dunno but your friend is your best bet if he can recall thr gun's history.

 

[h2oboywp]

You said your friend buffed off the rust. Maybe he buffed the cocking notch on the bottom of the hammer and removed or rounded the notch.

 

[tennexplorer]

Many Model 29's have a rod that is inside the rebound spring that is in the rebound slide. It is supposed to serve as a trigger stop. If the rod is also covered in rust, it may have "grown" in length and is preventing the revolver from coming to full cock.

 

[steelslaver]

I would soak the whole thing in a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and kerosene for a few days then disassembly everything except for the rear sight adjustment screws. Then clean it all with brake cleaner, the reassemble rubbing every part with an oily rag. Then you will know what you have going.

 

[44wheelman]

Sounds like thorough cleaning/disassembly are required. +1 on the above soaking.

I did buy a stainless .22 Dan Wesson at a gun show from a trusted seller. It had wire tie on it, and didn't bother trying it out til I got home. When I did, no double action. I was cursing him under my breath for selling me a butchered gun.....until I took it apart and saw that the hammer was indeed a sao part (factory,and not cut, ground, or otherwise modified).