S&W Victory takedown screw problem

UPDATE:
After using the 4" T-handle wrench to tighten it. Put 200 rounds of Federal Match through it last night no problem with the screw.
Did have 1 misfire with the Federal
 
Well it seems that this thread has quieted down. I guess not to many have had a problem with a loose screw.

I explained before mine was extremely tight when I first bought it and have hand tightened it since with a six inch long Allen wrench.

I put 200 rounds two or three times a week through it and have never had either the take down screw nor the barrel screw come loose yet.

It's a nice, accurate and fun gun to shoot. :)
 
My new SW22 Victory has been to the range once, and has perhaps 150 rounds through it. Nice shooter. Tried to take it apart today and the screw won't move at all. Build date is 04-07-16. I have now sheared two hex bits. Screw won't move, then the bit snaps. One was an impact bit, and the other was a hex mounted on a 3/8" drive socket. I can certainly clean the bore without taking it apart,
but I'm going to have to try heat or something else. I haven't tried the hex that came with it because I didn't want to break it too.
 
PLG I wouldn't want to put heat to it as that will expand the shank into the nut that is welded to the barrel making it tighter. It's not like your trying to take out a rusted manifold bolt. Because of the frame you can't put heat to the nut.

I would try a good quality hex wrench first. If that fails get it off to Smith&Wesson.
 
Mine works pretty good now; it is a Jan 2016 buy. One time though it would not release.

I put the barrel in a vice, surrounded by rags, and put the proper hex bit in the takedown screw. Then I got the longest handled crescent wrench I could find and used that to turn the screw.

Thank goodness for Archimedes.
 
PLG I wouldn't want to put heat to it as that will expand the shank into the nut that is welded to the barrel making it tighter. It's not like your trying to take out a rusted manifold bolt. Because of the frame you can't put heat to the nut.

I would try a good quality hex wrench first. If that fails get it off to Smith&Wesson.

The idea of putting heat to the screw isn't the same as taking off a rusty manifold. The reason for the heat is to break the bond of factory applied thread sealer, and is common practice for removing screws held in place with Lok-tite type products. In many cases, a soldering iron works great for this process. You aren't trying to get the screw red hot, just warm enough to break the sealant's bond.
 
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When I first field striped my Victory with the stock hes wrench it wouldn't budge, I used a longer wrench and it broke free. I cleaned and found a defect in the rifling so it's at S&W as we speak. Sucks brand new gun and already sent back to the factory.
 
The idea of putting heat to the screw isn't the same as taking off a rusty manifold. The reason for the heat is to break the bond of factory applied thread sealer, and is common practice for removing screws held in place with Lok-tite type products. In many cases, a soldering iron works great for this process. You aren't trying to get the screw red hot, just warm enough to break the sealant's bond.

True enough but I pictured someone with a micro-torch heating the devil out of it.

Mine never had any type of thread sealant on it. Just oil.
 
After shearing another hex tool, I called S&W and they sent me a shipping label, so I'll box it up and send it back. I tried to clean it with the barrel on it and my patches encounter a rough spot at mid barrel. I don't have a bore scope, so I can't see what is going on there. I may just need to do a more thorough cleaning, but I'll have the manufacturer check that too.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
where can i get parts for the SW22 Victory

I normally buy a parts kit for new guns. I would like to get a few barrel screws, springs and pins. I also would like to get a spare threaded barrel. Can't find the parts for the ,22 Victory on Brownells or midway. Can't find anything on the S&W site. What do you do if you loose a screw while cleaning.
 
Everyone talks about the screw, but no one talks about the Allen wrench.
The one furnished by S&W is too soft and flexes. I used my Eklind heat treated Allen wrench, and it was stiff enough to get the job done. Add VC-3 vibration blocker on the thread, and all is good. No problems after thousands of rounds.
 
I normally buy a parts kit for new guns. I would like to get a few barrel screws, springs and pins. I also would like to get a spare threaded barrel. Can't find the parts for the ,22 Victory on Brownells or midway. Can't find anything on the S&W site. What do you do if you loose a screw while cleaning.

My Volquartsen SS fluted/ported barrel is threaded as you can unscrew the ported piece.
 
Everyone talks about the screw, but no one talks about the Allen wrench.
The one furnished by S&W is too soft and flexes. I used my Eklind heat treated Allen wrench, and it was stiff enough to get the job done. Add VC-3 vibration blocker on the thread, and all is good. No problems after thousands of rounds.

Taking my wife's gun down was hard, impossible with the supplied Allen.:eek: Went down to the garage and got a good Allen and even that would not budge the screw. Got a 10'' crescent wrench and put that on the Allen. That finely got it to move. I see they call for 40 inch pounds of force, that screw must have been set to 40 foot pounds. Put it back together just by "feel" and so far (300 rounds) it has not loosened up!
 
Taking my wife's gun down was hard, impossible with the supplied Allen.:eek: Went down to the garage and got a good Allen and even that would not budge the screw. Got a 10'' crescent wrench and put that on the Allen. That finely got it to move. I see they call for 40 inch pounds of force, that screw must have been set to 40 foot pounds. Put it back together just by "feel" and so far (300 rounds) it has not loosened up!

1690 rounds since torqued to 40 inch pounds with Purple Loctite.
 
Take-down screw

I just purchased the Victory and decided to clean it prior to shooting it. I have also snapped an allen wrench (ball type with a handle) and stripped out the head. I even tried an easy out with a vise grip and have had no luck. Very disappointed. I sent S&W an email and waiting for their response. Makes me wish I had bought Browning or Ruger.
 
Buy the Ruger at least you probably won't break the hammer that is required to take it a part. Well the head did come off mine. Taking my new Mark III Competition apart. You also need the hammer to put it back together. I have had many guns but this is the first one the manual told me to beat on it with a hammer.
 
I just purchased the Victory and decided to clean it prior to shooting it. I have also snapped an allen wrench (ball type with a handle) and stripped out the head. I even tried an easy out with a vise grip and have had no luck. Very disappointed. I sent S&W an email and waiting for their response. Makes me wish I had bought Browning or Ruger.

Ball type Allen wrenches were never made to remove or tighten socket head screws. They were designed so you could quickly remove them when you can't get on them straight. Loosen then use the ball.
 
Got mine about two weeks ago. 061916 is the date. Even before firing the first time the take down screw was not that hard to undo. My first 500 rounds it loosened around 200 rounds or so. Tightened up and was good for the last 300 rounds. Second time out exact same thing out of 500 more rounds.
 
Penetrating oil typically won't do much for thread locking compound. Try heating it with a soldering iron. Heat will cause the thread lock compound to soften up.

Unless they recently changed something, there was no threadlocker on my screw.
 
Myself I do not recommend any form of thread locker on the screw at all. Either torque it down to 40 inch lbs or use a No.61 O-ring. Thats all you need to do.
 
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