Model 19-3 stainless?

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Just wanted to add that I recently came accross a non Model marked Model 19 that got out of the fatcory unmarked.
I also have seen two Model 60-3's (By SN#) with no dash marks.
Workers are human and things happen.

Letter $50, Bottle of cold blue $6.00, I would perform the cold blue test.
 
I'm almost afraid to wade into this! :D This gun, as several have said, is so typical of refinished cop guns that were nearly a dime a dozen in the late-70s and early-80s that it seems the chances of it being even a mismarked specimen are small. But there is another possibility that I have not seen mentioned. The gun very easily could be a combination of both stainless and carbon steel parts. For example, could not the frame indeed be a 19-3 that has been hard chromed, and have a later stainless cylinder, or any combination of parts? (We see it appears to have flash chromed hammer and trigger.)

If it was serviced by a department armorer who was either working with what he had, or responding to the requests of the individual officer, this is another possibility. I seem to recall seeing several 19s that had had 66 cylinders installed by local armorers, but I am to the place where I do not trust my "memory" like I used to. :o

It is going to be hard to get to the bottom of this without someone knowledgeable having the revolver in-hand, who can inspect it. Maybe Mr. Jinks was thinking of this when he said a letter might not be much help, and he may have been too much of a gentleman to say it.

To me, the fact that the parts appear to have been marked, as would be typical for an after-market plating job, indicate there is little doubt the gun has been refinished. All a letter will state is what the records show the gun once was, when it left the factory. Again, as others have said, in spite of that, STILL a nice and useful revolver.
 
Dan,
Once again, it must be a sad person ( probably very qualified though) that would rather insinuate brilliance at someone's expense instead of offering to explain how to perform such a simple and fast test. I wonder if being of such lofty intellect makes a person agitated and condescending:eek:?
Uhhh-
I think you took Dan's post entirely wrong. Dan just told you a positive test:
Scratch the grip frame in an insignificant spot deeply enough to go through any possible finish, and see if cold blue will blue it. How is he insinuating brilliance at someone else's expense?
Sounds like a good idea to me.






Doc44 asked you early in this thread about the V pictured below. He also asked if there is an S inside the barrel shroud. You have yet to answer those two questions, yet keep pounding people here for their opinions.
Forgive us, but we have encountered many instances through the years where someone keeps "trying to believe the story into reality".
You dodge our questions and suggestions, and belittle us for lack of faith.......

What was the final verdict on the"V" on the rear cylinder face and the "S" in ejector shroud?

Jerry

standard.jpg

FWIW-
I have seen hundreds of revolvers plated with Armaloy or MetaLife or some other satin, hard finish through the years that look just like stainless to most people. Actually put the gun beside a Mod 66 and compare the two in good light, though that might not be definative.
The sideplate and logo pic make me think refinish because the polish marks don't match any I have ever seen on an S&W in both texture and direction, whether blue OR stainless.
The numbered parts also make the refinish highly likely as others mentioned. After fitting and assembling the gun, why would S&W disassemble it and number all those small parts? They already had it built and assembled, so no need for the numbering. A refinish shop on the other hand that was plating 5 guns a day WOULD need to number them to get the same parts back in it.
 
An update from the thread originator

I just wanted to stick my head back in the room and answer a few of the posts (both public and private) concerning my "19-3."

Once again thanks to all who offered suggestions. i learned a lot from you. I also corresponded with some genuinely helpful and interesting people.

At the same time, I found that one or two disagreements with other forum members led to a "piling on" that took the fun out of what had become an enjoyable time. It's too bad more so many take the time to add their own version of the same discontent.

Back to the revolver, I finally had a break from a hectic work schedule and will use the '"cold blue" test to find out if it's stainless or not. i went on to amazon and the choices were overwhelming. I would appreciate a few suggestions about exactly what product and other details. Should I get a touch up pen? Is there a particular brand to look for that's available in a small amount?

Thanks
 
I bought a 4 oz bottle 10 years ago and its still half full.
I think its mostly the same product in different package.

I havent tried the pen yet but it looks to be the easist, especialy if your going to apply it inside the grip frame....
Good Luck.
 
Thanks Bruce

I'm sorry but I have to.

It took us 84 posts to get to this point-what cold blue to buy?

:eek:

Bruce

Thank you, I was trying to find the best way to explain myself before but you just did it for me. Moderator: I'm sorry in advance for the public reply.

Bruce, thanks to you, I'll add something (actually several things) to some words of wisdom already passed along. First rude is rude, especially directed at strangers and family. Two, happiness will never find "grumpiness" and rightly so.

Now go spit on the floor and save your comments for the wall. (No offense to those that spit tobacco, I'm prone to it myself. The word is just more suitable in a public forum)
 
I forgot to say thanks to most and goodbye.

I want to especially thank Bill for the advice and "borntoraisehogs" for the incredible grips. You guys are great and it's been my pleasure to have corresponded with you.
 
I don't think it will really matter just which type of 'cold blue' you happen to use, the "pen type" I question.....
more importantly it is the "mark" that you make ,somewhere out of the way , out of sight, like under the grips, and how deep you make it....you have to get below the surface enough to get at "base" metal...some of what I recall is that Armaloy, Metalife, and such, they have about a 2 mil build up and some can actually ingrain, into the metal surface.....this "mark" will in NO way hurt the integrity of the gun, and will never been seen and if it does "darken" ( turn blue) you KNOW it is NOT stainless, then by all means, leave it oiled................yes, this could have been done ,way back, January 24th or so, and some 80 posts earlier, quite simple and easy and yes, its done all the time when there is this type of question.Been doing this since the late 1960's.........
 
Solution

Here's the definitive answer, take a cutting torch to some part of it. If it's stainless it will turn red but won't cut when you apply oxygen. If it's carbon steel it will cut through like butter. Problem solved!
 
Here's the definitive answer, take a cutting torch to some part of it. If it's stainless it will turn red but won't cut when you apply oxygen. If it's carbon steel it will cut through like butter. Problem solved!

That comment dang near killed me and the tears I'm still wiping away

I have read on and on with no intention of posting, but this comment/Method of determining material was just too much...Thats funny right there

PLEASE post a pic of the cylinder face and of the inside of barrel shroud and you might as well post the pic of the cold blue test too.

No need to order cold blue as a number of places carry Birchwood Casey brand and it's cheap, works for this test well and will not leave you wondering.

Also I feel that at this point ignoring and leaving all to wonder would be just Rude and Unthankful at the very least.

I'm not a betting man but me thinks you own a 4 inch Combat Magnum

I would also add that I'm almost positive that shooting it would give me great pleasure.

Be Safe, Be Kind and above all attempt to live life with the utmost Integrity
-2sigs
 
2sigs said
I'm not a betting man but me thinks you own a 4 inch Combat Magnum

Which is not at all a bad position to be in IMHO .
 
He said "Goodby" folks. He's going to leave us all wondering because we didn't understand his sensitive and gentle nature and were rude to him.

Dave
 
He said "Goodby" folks. He's going to leave us all wondering because we didn't understand his sensitive and gentle nature and were rude to him.

Dave

Dave, grow up. How's this for "sensitive," don't disrespect someone you don't know. Some may say that' s on par with being the toughest p--- in an empty room.
 
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I guess it's not stainless, or he would have surely posted it if he was correct.

I will definitely let everyone know (and see) the results. I just have to get time to pick up the blue and test it. (Hopefully this weekend.)
 
How about simply answering the question if you have a 'V' on the cylinder and an 'S' at the ejector rod? That would help identify it.
 
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